Back Packing

I've always complained that catwalk images can often be these flat 2-dimensional things where the back is ignored and so you can't really get the full picture of what's going on.  In Rad Hourani's case, almost all emphasis was on the back.  A backpack that was spawned from last season's folded jackets that were hung with straps now come in low slung bags that are like oversized bumbags or high-up rucksacks.  Just to add more back action (don't even GO there,Nike Air Max 24-7 Mens, brain!),Coach Wallets, the jackets were also hung at the back as well as folding origami style to form different shapes.  Apparently the jackets can be worn in 26 different ways - cue instructional video, no?

Anyway,Monster Beats Studio Kobe Bryant, all of Rad's black back baggage is really making me think of the boxy obi knots.  Which probably wasn't Hourani's intention given he is strictly anti-theme.  That he's unintentionally minimised the structures of these obi knots into completely practical modes of wear just makes me think I need to keep expanding my backpack repetoire and perhaps even incorporate the odd bit of back garment wearing.  Wonderering if a separate Moschino floral jacket hung at the back randomly will have the same effect as a sleek black one by Rad.  Hmmm... let's think again, shall we?

 

 
 
 

Switch Up

,real coach purses

>> I didn't want to crowd my previous He/She post with Tim Soar's moodboard images for S/S 12 so here they are.  From the A/W 11-12 unisex concept, which Steve and I roadtested,Gucci Long Wallet, where men and womens clothes are interchangeable and undefinable in gender,replica coach handbags, we will see a greater degree of separation for S/S 12.  As it turns out S/S 12 menswear will feel slightly more feminine and the womenswear will also become less androgynous which will make for an interesting debut at London Fashion Week, as Tim Soar has become one of the recipients of New Gen.  Fifties silhouettes where it's tight at the bottom and fuller on the top populate Soar's moodboards which will definitely play out in the collection.  For men?  It seems there'll be a reivist of a 90s broad-shouldered tailoring.  Can't read into these too deeply other than for their longstanding aesthetic value but we'll see come September what the fruits of Soar's labour produces... 

Late Cheer

>> I may have ended the last post on Arise Magazine Fashion Week on a bit of a bum note.  No, I'm not saying being inspired by your own culture is in any way a bad thing but sometimes, it can feel like a designers of minority ethnicity are shackled to that and see it as a way of standing out against Caucasian peers.  Relating your own work to personal experience and heritage though obviously yields great things. When a collection reflects a reality that is genuine and exuberant and feels like it's shaking things up a bit, then I duly approve.  I'm a bit late to Kezia Frederick's Central Saint Martins BA collection but these images are the perfect Friday pick-me-up, that segues into a vaguely clunky mode of dressing that I've personally been enjoying - trainers,soccer jerseys sale, socks, multiple shirts/jumpers tied around the waist and of course the formidable print/colour clashing that you're so very used to whenever you zoom over to Style Bubble.  Anybody familiar with the 55 bus route in London or if you live in any multi-cultural city, will get where Frederick is coming from.  She explored the idea of "dual citizenship" with her energetic collection that combines photographs of style observed in London as well as of Nigerian women coming out of church (something that I've personally been fascinated as I grew up seeing people come out of Methodist/Baptist churches in Willesden and Hackney on a Sunday, wondering why their outfits were so fancy).  There's something about Frederick's combination of traditional Nigerian dress with more familiar street-derived elements that come together quite beautifully here.  Frederick took her collection out to Arise Fashion Week and the folks at Patternity singled her out as one of their personal faves from the week.  Hopefully she'll be finding her own design niche soon enough.  

(Photographs by Shiba Huizer)

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Paint It Blue

Still playing catch up with all of my Stockholm Fashion Week things.  Their S/S 12 presentations come well timed as I'm trying to make the most out of the last fleeting days of summer and it just so happens that a lot of the designers have been exploring ideas of travelling to far-flung places and being wandering nomads in their collections.  It seems a bit obvious to go "Ah spring/summer!  Let's go on a holiday!".  I noted this last time I covered the S/S 11 collections in Stockholm.  However it's a little more than just taking a fortnight off in the sun.  Designers in Stockholm have been REALLY trying to get away. 

Hope couldn't even specify where they had gone.  It's an amalgamation of places where Yves Klein Blue and shades of indigo look really good judging from their latest S/S 12 collection.  It's actually the 'loosest' I've seen Hope been where they have really relaxed their aesthetic to allow more playful elements into the fold.  Rag rug knitting, hand dyed fabrics, Mexican Bajaa hoodies, Hamman towels and a play of texture with mixed linen fabrics that feel quite bohemian all contribute to a traveller's wardrobe that still feels very rooted in Hope's mode of relaxed tailoring.   Whilst they done a bit of scouring around the world for textures and details that work within the collection, the flood of Yves Klein Blue is actually a reference to the freedom and serenity of the Nordic light.  I loved how the blues infiltrated the collection in different ways, fading in and out of that very saturated and specific shade of blue. 

Other designers at Stockholm Fashion Week have noted very specific locales for their inspiration journey, which I'll be posting up when my little Bon video probings are also live but for Hope, a label that constantly loops back to Scandi surroundings, this was a playful departure that meant they could travel the world without ever straying too far away. 

Yves Klein : "Anthropometry"

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